Arno Bay Week 49

                Arno Bay Eyre Peninsula

                                       Week 49

We have had a casual week. Three days has turned into a week. Brian likes it  here because we have grass again. It is almost like we have been starved of grass for so long the prospect of moving to sand and dust again is not attractive to him.

In the windows of opportunity Brian has thrown a line in and tried to entice some fish or squid, but the weather is very ‘Melbournish’ - fine now and rainy and windy and cold in an hour then fine again in a few hours. Brian has broken the record for the number of times the awning has been taken out and replaced.

We have managed a few games of golf ($5- grass fairways- yippee) at nearby Cleve, some essential exercise for our ever expanding waistlines. Travelling north to Cowell we explore the town and enjoy a huge $10 lunch that is so huge we don’t need to eat again that day. We have become excuse people for more programmed exercise - it’s too cold, there’s too much seaweed on the beach, it’s too hot. The list goes on. Gail W will be pleased to know that after seven is get up time in SA and one day we awoke at nearly half past eight - unheard of. After all those 4:30 mornings in WA it is a big change - what daylight saving does for you.

The hint of fish lingers on the air, even when the fish cleaners have long left the cleaning station, but of course the faint hint is actually the seaweed. You do get to tune it out after a few days- a bit like living in Gordonvale in the mill season. That sugar sweet aroma is all pervasive for a week or so and then by the end of the season everyone says, “What smell?”

For the first few days, the fishing charter Fuzzwells was doing well. The fish cleaning station was abuzz with eager fishermen and prospective weather, but by the latter days of our stay here, there was sight nor sign of intrepid adventurers. Brian declined to go, saying you had to catch an awful lot of fish to justify the $180 pp pricetag - was deaf to the idea that is was the experience, so of course another chance to catch the big ones has got away. The locals were all complaining no fish are at the jetty or the river mouth anymore because of the fish feeding cages where the wild fish get an easy feed from the drop through.

Brian’s one complaint that the “pussy” on a lead bit him, how unfriendly is that. That’s what you get for being too friendly with someone else’s pet - be warned all you men out there.

Our park is friendly and hosts “events” like the $2 sausage (and fish) sizzle that allows guests to mingle and chat. We spoke with some would be 10 pound Poms who were rejected years ago, but have now come to holiday here thirty years on, buying a car and a caravan for their trip. Sunday finds us hoeing into pancakes and syrup, my favourite way to start the day. Now you know why the waistlines are expanding.

One of the parks drivers was very unusual. A Swedish Collie with special skills. His owners work at the embassy in Canberra, posted for three or four years. They had to buy a van so the dog could sleep inside and not been relegated to outdoors when they stayed at units. He gets a chance to drive, but hasn’t earned his full lisence yet.

Lifting our February spirits, we found out this week we are going to be grandparents again.  Adele will be having a baby in August and we have the first baby photo already. Looks like it is going to be another year to remember. We are thrilled and proud “Grandies” once again, or soon will be.

We are off to Whyalla tomorrow to get our warranty tyre fitted. Beaurepaires came through at last, even though we have moved states. We were going to the Flinders Ranges next but all the water from the north has closed the roads in the park so we will go to plan B instead and head for Adelaide and then hopefully Kangaroo Island if the weather permits.

Have a good week. I for one and ready to move, no matter what weather presents. Onward ho the Nomads.

Coffin Bay To Tumby Bay Week 48

          Coffin Bay to Tumby Bay

                          Week 48

We are finding it hard to believe. Four weeks short of a year away from home. Dennis and Col are deciding if they will have a return visit to the Burdekin Dam, which was virtually the first stop on out trip where the famous barra catch occurred.

Here in South Australia on the Eyre Peninsula it is a world away. Actually we are in the heart of wheat lands, though rolling tablelands all wheat brown or grey. Not really very inspiring. Grass is at a premium, so playing on a very well grassed golf course in Coffin Bay on Monday was a real treat. We had the course to ourselves and really enjoyed a few hours of the golfers “Aaarrrgh” and sometimes “Ahhh!” We even managed to forgive them the scrape “greens” as the putting surface. We will be lost when we return to normal courses.

The journeys now are small and we really appreciate moving day after some of the long hauls in WA. Tuesday finds us moving on to just north of Port Lincoln, really a northern suburb. The park is casual and roomy, but windy.

There is a jetty nearby, within walking distance where a few non windy moments allowed Brian to put in a line or two and catch his first squid. I could only feel sorry for the poor creature. I didn’t realize squid had such large soulful eyes. He also got the opportunity to capture some magic sunrise moments, red and gold shimmering on the unusually still waters.

We had two golf courses here to choose from, but not firing on all cylinders opted for the one north at Louth Bay - bad choice. It was like playing on the Nullabor again. I guess I was over it and if I have to play in conditions like this two many more times, my bad temper will get the better of me and I’ll through the clubs in the nearest bin. Do you get the feeling it wasn’t fun?

With the idea of taking our van to the National Park here for a few days, we took a drive and searched for suitable spots. The camps five book suggested one near the park entry, just off the bitumen, but there was little going for them. Further in, much further, after about 30km of very corrugated road, there was a fishermen’s camp spot but crowded and windy and dusty. We are becoming picky.

Venturing as far into the park as was possible we come across a lighthouse and a crowd of emus enjoying the delights on the bushes by the shore. I could only feel for the poor cassowaries back home after their rainforest has again been denuded. I hope the population can survive through this next ordeal.

After paying an entry fee for the park, driving for three hours we still haven’t found a picnic area and none are marked on the map. If they had a suggestion box they would have received a reminder that user pays is fine, but one facility in the park would be good. Lo and behold, ask and ye shall receive. On a whim on our turnaround, we call into September Beach and here are a number of newly built picnic spots and toilets. A great picnic spot, well appreciated and our faith in the SA National Park system has been restored.

Here we find some large camp bays, big enough for caravans, but the sight of brown snakes did it for me. The promise of water in some large tanks was also an empty one as not a drop poured from the taps. Combined with the corrugations to be endured, Brian got the idea I may need a lot of persuading to camp out, so that one “hit the dust”.

The ordinary, windy weather has hit us again as we head on another short journey to Tumby Bay. Merv told us we would fit right in here because the average age was 55. Brian said the fact it sounded like Tummy Bay was more in keeping with our current image.

Yes Tumby Bay looks like it has the potential to be a desirable destination, especially if you like fishing and boating. There is a huge new canal development here with huge homes and stylish boats, out of our league. The older part of town has many old style homes lovingly restored that look appealing, even in the blustery winds.

All week we think we have birds or possums on the roof. Turns out the wind is slowly turning the antenna so there a little clicking tapping noises. Not surprising the reception is patchy at best, even with digital tv.

Our final day in Tumby Bay and the sky clears. Fishing is still out because of the winds, but we drive on one of the tourist drives. We see an old water collection tank at the base of a walled granite outcrop, a smaller version of what we had seen at Hyden in WA at Wave Rock. The water here was for the steam engines that needed to refill.

The pelicans here gather by the fish cleaning station to demand a feed. They resemble the Russian cargo planes. They stretch credibility that they can actually fly. Some German tourists witnessing the feeding demands got a little more than they bargained for when they ventured to close and were regarded as competition for the fish. They were told in no uncertain terms by rather large snapping beaks to butt out or risk serious injury. No arguing with those birds.

We got the good news that we will get a warranty for the new tyre that blew a couple of weeks ago. It was a surprise as we had resigned ourselves to learning a consumers lesson- don’t listen to “experts” or you will pay for it, but luckily the assessor felt we deserved a break so we will get a replacement in the next week or so.

At the start of a new week, and hopefully with the weather gods on our side to Arno Bay and then Wyalla as we work our way up the right side of the Eyre Peninsula.

Keep smiling

The wind blown Nomads

Streaky Bay to Port Lincoln Week 47

              Streaky Bay to Port Lincoln

                            Week 47

As we begin on journey down the Eyre Peninsula, we have encountered extreme conditions. Sunday found us coping with 48 in the sun and 43 in the shade. Dennis, you won’t believe it after that photo you sent, but we donned our togs and waded out to the bay. The water temperature was sauna like and we had to wade to thigh deep water, about 100m out to find comfortable water. Very pleasant cooling effect when you stand up in the air - instant cooling.

Streaky Bay is a very popular destination for holiday makers, even though the school holidays here are now over, and despite the heatwave.

Monday found us completing a couple of tourist drives, all on gravel roads to check out the areas bays and cliffs. Much of the time we are reminded of Mariah Island in Tassie, just a big difference in temperatures.

Luckily we are back to short distances between camping destinations. We only to to travel for a couple of hours to reach Elliston. The big plus here is grass, glorious grass and shade.

Because of Cyclone Yasi we have been somewhat distracted from touring this week. First we were worried about what could happen, and being so far away, we could only sit and keep our fingers crossed. The television coverage was very detailed, too much at times because you felt they had started a bit early and it was worse than waiting for a baby to be born, but I guess of of you experiencing the cyclone wish it had stayed away totally.

There are big silos here, but most of the park are fishermen, the other big attraction in the whole of the Eyre Peninsula, assuming you don’t get blown away.

We spend a pleasant three days here, feeling somewhat relieved our worst fears have not been realized. We were mentally preparing for driving home and cutting short the trip. Desiree in Innisfail, East Palmerston to be more exact came out the worst and communication at the moment is difficult as mobile coverage is bad and there is no way to recharge batteries. The power situation looks dire for her for quite a stretch, but fingers crossed, the school nearby will put her area up on the recovery list and it won’t be quite so long a wait as when Larry struck five years ago.

Moving further south in the peninsula, it is becoming less like the Nullabor and more like Australian bush. To finish the week and begin the next we head for Coffin Bay. Horrible name, but it was named after a friend of Flinders, nothing to do with shipwrecks and deaths.

It is a quiet little town, famous for oysters, and of course a fishing destination.

There is a national Park here with some two wheel drive destinations and lots of four wheel drive opportunities. We stick to the two wheel ones and limit our dune and beach wandering because the strong winds over the sand and the dunes batter you like a sandblasting machine. We stop to avoid emus a few times and let wandering lizards cross the road in peace. We are again in an area prolific with bird life.

Some galahs are having a day on the beach but find themselves sheltering on the roughly eroded cliff edges. The gulls by the water are jumping over the incoming waves like youngsters frolicking at the beach, so despite the wind, we enjoy our little exploration of the park.

Here’s hoping you all escaped the worst of the destructiveness of the cyclone, as well as your friends and family.

Have a good week

The relieved nomads.